MAKE AND SELL CROPPED
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Welcome to another class here on the blog in this blog I will explain to you how to make a blouse with a little lastex body and a puffy sleeve so for those who still don't know how to work with lastex there is one on my Instagram profile. I have a class explaining right so I'll leave the link here in the description take a look there then come back here to class so I'll explain to you What measurements we're going to need how to do the calculations how we sew this beautiful blouse so let's go to class it's complete so I'll start with the body.
we will need the circumference of either the waist or the bust I'll explain why and the height of the body circumference we will need the thinnest part if your waist is thinner than your bust you will use a waist if your bust is smaller than the waist So you will use the bust So we will work with. the smallest part of our little body the height we will determine from here.
to the desired height if you want it shorter or if you want it up to the waist so we need the circumference and the height of the body, now going to the sleeve, we will take the measurement from the middle of the shoulder to the half because this is where our sleeve will be. So we will take the height from the middle of the shoulder.
to the desired length In my case, I wanted to the height of the elbow so I took it here up to the height of the elbow and the width of the arm so we will take the measurement of the chubby part of the arm this width of the arm too so we already have the measurements for the sleeve and the measurement for the body and we also need the measurements for the elastic.
So, we are going to put elastic here and here it is optional who wants to put the elastic who wants to leave the frill here does not need to put elastic on mine if I'm going to put an elastic band here then I'm going to need that measure of the elastic band I'm going to take the measurement of my arm here where I determined the end if you determined it here.
then this is where you have to measure your elastic band plus two centimeters for sewing here I'm going to measure from this part of my body to this one plus 2 cm also for sewing And since I'm going to determine the size of my shoulder elastic I'm going to put it in the same direction that I determined the front part of my blouse I'm going to put the elastic on the back.
So we will need to do twice as much we will do 100% in case my waist was 72 I will do 72 more because I will use 100% if it is a thick fabric like a tricoline we will need to use only 70% because it tends to wrinkle less when we apply lastex another observation that I want to make for you this measurement here of the waist width will also change because I used my waist measurement because we will take the measurement of the thinnest part of our body between the bust.
the waist my waist is thinner than my bust so I will work with the waist measurement but if your bust is smaller than the width of your waist then you will use the width of the bust so that part also Changes so now we will need the length we will add four more because we will make a bar here at the beginning and one here at the end of 2 cm here and two here so we will add four more choose a length of 28 and I added four more for Barra so we already have the measurements of our little body here is the measurement of the armhole.
how much I will need to mark I will explain this to you and then we will also need the measurements to make the sleeve we need the length and width the length that I defined up to my elbow which was 37 and I also added four more because we are also going to make a 2 cm bar here and here So I add four more for the seam and the width. I took the measurement of my arm and added 40 cm for this model if you want less puckering and fewer wide sleeves.
so you can take 15 cm and if you want a wider sleeve you can add another 15 cm for me 40 cm is enough so my measurement was 67 by 41 here are the measurements for us to make the armhole too that I'll explain to you later and observation here in Corpinho this measurement often won't have fabric with this width we find up to 40 1 and 30 so we you will need to take two heights on the fabric So we will cut and divide by two because I will want my seam on the side if I did this measurement directly.
I would have to sew in the middle of the back but I want it on the sides so I divided it into two divide your result by 2 and I had 72 so I'm going to take me the height here which is 32 by 72 twice so we're going to have Two Measures two rectangles of this one measuring 32 by 72 and two sleeves measuring 41 by 67 now I'll show for you, the fabric is already cut and as we are going to make this armhole here, I already have the fabric from my little body cut.
I explained to you, I have two rectangles I cut them twice so I will leave one on top of the other for us now cut the armholes I'm going to take my magic pen to mark here to show you here on my cover I'm going to enter nine and a half from here to here and I'm going to enter 10 and a half from here to here so leave the fabric well lined up and have it lined up very straight and we’ll mark it again here and 10.5 downwards like this.
we'll be making a curve to find the two points I'll do it like this with my free hand and it'll stay like this so come here and cut this cover and I’m going to use what I've just cut as a template for the other side to be exactly the same. both are already cut, stay like this and now I'm going to do the same thing on the sleeve now I'm going to make my Bar on top of my sleeve here is my armhole on the side and the top.
So, I'm going to turn it a centimeter and another centimeter and I'm going to make a little bar here so now I'm going to do this on both sleeves and on the top part of the body as well, I'm sewing here on the front and back, and now I'm going to start working with lastex so what am I going to do with my first row of lastex I'm going to run it very close here so I'm going to run a row of lastex very close here and then I'm going to start from a distance of 1 cm.
I'm going to use the measurement of my presser foot as a guide so I'm going to do it one by one centimeter, So I'm going to the machine and I'm going to show you exactly how it's going to look here I've already put the lastex on my bobbin I put it in the bobbin case There's a video on Instagram explaining exactly how we're going to do this process and for us to start sewing I'm going to put the inside part.
This is the inside part of the piece here is the seam we made from top to bottom because the lastex when we start sewing it will be to the inside So we put it down and I'm going to make the first seam very close, this is it, so I'm going to make the first row of lastex here with 0.2 below this seam and then I'm going to guide myself by this distance from my presser foot to be very straight so I use this measurement that it’s 1 cm so I'm going to do the first row and then I'll explain to you how we're going to do the second and so on.
so here we'll already see that it's wrinkled this is the outside and the inside side of how it will look so now we will continue using this distance so here is my lastex seam I will put it very close here so I will be guided by the presser foot So I will position it, I will go backward at the beginning and I will continue until the end so it was so the second row of lastex and now we followed this one do one more followed by the other and so we will finish both the front and the back now to make my sleeve.
I'm here with my belly on the top ready I’ve only made the top part, not the bottom yet and I'm going to sew the side to the side like this. Back to back Why do we do Back? to back I'm going to finish the French seam so first, we sew Back with the wrong side leaving this part that we made the Bar inside so we're going to make the reverse with the wrong side and we're going to pass half a centimeter closing the seam of half a centimeter here and I've already cut the little threads that were unraveling.
so now I'm going to turn it and throw it inside this way and now I've been loving it hiding this seam and it's been arranging and I'm going to sew a 1 cm seam now from here to the top and it's going to be like this on the inside and the outside so it's all embedded so now we're going to do it at the bar at the bottom here of our sleeve I'm going to cut this part a little bit I'm going to remove a little bit of the excess because it's easier when folding and sewing I always take a little bit here a centimeter is enough to be careful.
don't cut the seam and we're going to make the bar it's going to fold one centimeter plus one centimeter I'll pin it here with a pin and I'm going to make the bar here and I'm not going to close it until the end I'm going to leave an opening for us to be able to pass our elastic so I'm going to leave an opening from here to here without fastening this part because when we fasten it here, we leave an opening more here, sometimes it's difficult to pass the elastic because of this seam so I always leave this part open and pass the elastic through here.
So, here I'm going to do the sewing and I'm going to leave an opening of approximately 3 cm until here to pass the elastic my sleeve is almost ready I'll now need to pass the elastic here in the part that will be on our shoulder and here in the bottom part So I already got my elastics the biggest part I know will be on my shoulder and the bottom part and I'm going to use this one to pass the elastic so I fasten it like this and I'm going to pass the elastic with the elastic passed.
Now, I go there in the machine here in the part of my shoulder I'm going to pass a seam here, securing only one side because if I need to adjust it, tighten it a little more I'll just pull it here so I'm going to attach one side of the elastic and here at the bottom I'm going to pass a seam also securing this one elastic I already learned one side of my elastic I left the other stuck there but I didn’t sew it and I already closed my elastic here too.
Now I’ve been adjusting it to be uniform and I’m going to the machine now and I’m going to close this opening I’ve already finished the two sleeves I made the process here on both so I already have one sleeve I left it open here and the second sleeve that I also left an elastic open here in case I need to adjust it So the sleeves are ready to put on the body here I already have my body finished I passed the lastex and left it 2 cm here for us to make the hem here I left it for you.
To see the difference with the elastic here I passed the elastic and here I didn't pass the elastic So if you want to keep that frill just don't pass the elastic I passed the elastic I'm going to put it here too and then I'm going to put it is inside out so here's the part of the lastex where we can see the lastex I'm going to put it inside out and I'm going to attach the sides because we're going to do this finish.
just like we did on the sleeve for the French seam here I've already attached a sleeve and how I did that here it's half a centimeter to the outside on this right side and the little seam is still on the outside because we're also going to finish the French seam then we throw it inside and sew a 1 cm seam so I'm going to sew the other one here with you both with the sleeve my finishing is here in both here and here on the blouse.
I'm going to put finishing like this with finishing for this little seam outside so I'm going to put the finishing seam here very neatly together and fasten it with a pin I'm going to take the end here of my sleeve with the end of the little body I'm going to pin it and I'm going to put one here in the middle, you can see that the one on the sleeve is a little bigger it's because the body is skinny so we stretch the body until it's the same size and attach the pin here in the middle to make it easier when sewing.
I'm going to attach one here in the middle and the same thing on this side here remember that we left a part without sewing from Mango elastic So, in this process, we are going to sew until a little below this elastic, we are not going to fasten it even though we are going to sew with this half centimeter and still do the finishing with the seam facing out, we are going to try and see if you need any adjustments to this elastic, so we fasten it, and stretch it just right to make it the same size.
fasten it with a pin and we go to the machine and sew a half-centimeter seam around this entire sleeve, so we must reverse on one side of the elastic passing half a centimeter before attaching the elastic so here I already closed the two sleeves with the seam facing out there is still half a centimeter here middle here I tried it I needed to decrease it a little bit I think here on my shoulder so I decrease and I've already closed the sides that had been left open and now I'm going to turn it inside out, look how beautiful it is inside and out
I'm going to do the French seam so I'm going to come here in the armhole and I'm going to turn it over, hiding this other seam and I'm going to sew a seam 1 cm ar and this whole armhole so I do this in this armhole and the other one and the blouse is finished. And look how beautiful the thing is the blouse is already finished here I already made that 1 cm seam so both in the armhole in the sleeves on the sleeve were all finished with French seam so everything is built-in. So the inside is like this and the outside comes to show you the body.